To choose a cowboy hat, decide on felt or straw first, then get your size right, and finally pick a crown and brim that suit your face. Felt is the traditional choice for cooler weather and smarter occasions, and straw is lighter and cooler for summer. A hat that fits properly will look better than an expensive one that doesn’t.

Felt or straw: what’s the difference?

	Felt	Straw
Best for	Autumn and winter, evenings and smarter events	Spring and summer, festivals and sunny days
Feel	Warmer and more structured	Light and airy
In a shower	Generally copes better, but wool felt can lose its shape if soaked	Best kept dry, as it can soften or warp
Care	Brush it, and store it carefully	Wipe it gently, and keep it out of a hot car

The old rule is felt from autumn until spring, and straw through the summer. Nobody will stop you breaking it, but it’s a useful guide to which hat will be comfortable. Our hat care guide has more on looking after each.

What do the numbers and X ratings on felt hats mean?

Some makers grade felt hats with an X rating, such as 3X or 10X, and a higher number generally means denser, finer felt. There’s no shared standard, though, so a rating from one maker can’t be directly compared with another’s. Judge a hat by how it feels and what’s listed for it, rather than the number alone.

What crown and brim suit my face?

The general idea is to balance your features. These are starting points rather than rules.

• Round face: a taller crown and a slightly narrower brim add length.
• Long or narrow face: a lower crown and a wider brim add width.
• Square face: a rounded crown softens a strong jawline.
• Heart-shaped face: a medium brim and crown keep things in proportion.
• Smaller frame: a very wide brim can overwhelm you, so try something more moderate.

Try the hat on in front of a full-length mirror if you can, because a cowboy hat works with your whole outline, not just your face.

What are the common cowboy hat shapes called?

The crown is often creased into a recognised shape. The cattleman has a tall crown with three creases, and is the classic look. A pinch front has two dents at the front that narrow to a point, which gives a slightly more relaxed look. A gambler has a low, flat crown and a flat brim. Hats vary, so check the photographs and details on each product page.

How should a cowboy hat fit?

It should sit level and feel snug all the way around, without leaving a mark on your forehead. It should stay put when you nod, and shouldn’t need pulling down. Most sit just above the eyebrows and ears. Our cowboy hat size guide shows you how to measure your head and read the size chart.

When can I wear a cowboy hat in the UK?

Anywhere you feel comfortable wearing one: line dancing, country music nights, festivals, Western riding, themed weddings and parties, or simply on a sunny day. For a first hat, choose something in a natural colour with a moderate brim, which goes with more clothes. If you’re less sure about wearing one day to day, a straw hat tends to feel more relaxed.

What’s the right way to handle a cowboy hat?

Pick it up by the brim, near the front and back, rather than pinching the crown. Regularly pinching the front creases can weaken the material over time, especially on straw. When you put it down, rest it upside down on its crown so the brim keeps its shape. Keep any hat away from strong heat, such as a car’s rear window.

What colour cowboy hat should I choose?

Natural straw, cream, tan and brown are the easiest colours to wear, and they go with denim and most everyday clothes. Black looks smart, and works well for evening events. White and light felts are striking, but they show marks more easily, so they need a little more care. If this is your first hat, choose a colour that matches your boots or belt, as that ties an outfit together without much effort.

How wide should the brim be?

A wider brim gives more shade and a stronger Western look, while a narrower one feels easier to wear day to day and suits smaller frames. For sun protection at a summer festival, a generous brim on a straw hat is the practical choice. Where it’s listed, the brim width is shown in the specifications on the product page, and it’s worth comparing it with a hat you already own.

Where should I start?

Browse men’s cowboy hats, women’s cowboy hats, or all our cowboy hats. We also have hats for boys and girls. Hats are one of the things that’s most useful to try on, so if you’re near central London, visit our store.